Concrete: Do It Yourself

Thinking of doing a sidewalk or patio project yourself?

It can be rewarding and doing it yourself can save you some money. But be prepared—pouring concrete is hard work and you’ll need forms, the rights tools and plenty of help.

As you start planning for your project, take into consideration what you will need…

  • Possibly a permit

    Check with your local building inspector.

  • Room for a mixer truck

    You need enough room and a passageway to bring in a mixer truck within 12 feet of where the concrete is to be dropped off. A loaded mixer can weigh up to 70,000 lbs. and is 13.5 feet tall. If the ground is soft, the wheels can make deep ruts. The heavy trucks can also damage existing walkways and driveways. Don’t forget to look for overhead wires, underground sprinklers, septic systems, etc. that would be in the path. Once the truck leaves the road, any damages arising from the delivery will be your responsibility. If the truck cannot access the job without damaging your property, you may want to consider hiring a pump or conveying company; or you will need to plan on using wheelbarrows to transport the wet concrete.

  • Lumber for forms

    Such as 2 x 4’s, stakes, and hardboard siding (if your project has curves); carpenter’s tools; and gravel or sand for the bed of the project.

  • Safety gear

    Protective gear for you and your helpers—minimum of rubber boots, rubber gloves and protective eyewear. WARNING — wet concrete is caustic and can cause permanently disfiguring chemical burns.

  • Helpers

    You will need at least two helpers (and up to six depending on the size of the job.) Placing and finishing concrete is strenuous labor that must be accomplished within a limited time frame. It is a perishable product and once it leaves the truck’s chutes, it is your responsibility to place and finish it. It is always better to have too much help rather than not enough.

Did you decide to hire a concrete contractor? Contact us.

If you’re still doing it yourself, continue reading for more tips.

Prepare Site

Dig out the area where the concrete will be poured. Remove tree roots, stones and heavy clay.

  • Erect Forms

    Use sturdy 2-by lumber for the straight areas. Use 6 inch strips of hardboard siding for the curved edges. Hammer in stakes and attach lumber to them. Place stakes at frequent intervals to prevent blowouts (every 3 feet). To prevent water from collecting on the pad, slope it by dropping one side of the form 1 inch for every 10 feet of concrete.

  • Prepare Base

    Apply sub-base materials if needed. Some conditions warrant the use of steel fiber or steel mesh. Put in expansion joint (every 30 feet and where you abut to other masonry surfaces) to prevent heaving, cracking or buckling.

  • Obtain Tools

    Have on hand the following tools to place and finish the concrete. These can be purchased or rented from your local hardware store or rental company.

    • shovels (with square end)

    • come-along or concrete rake

    • screed board

    • magnesium floats

    • bull float with handles

    • concrete edger

    • concrete jointer/groover

    • concrete broom

    • concrete towel

    • hose

    • sealer

    • protective clothing, rubber boots and rubber gloves

  • Order the Concrete

    Schedule the delivery on a day when rain is not expected. A rainstorm in the middle of an outdoor project could be a disaster. (See our Quality Control section for tips on hot and cold weather pours). For a five-yard pour, you will need between three to six hours to complete the job.

  • Arrange to have your helpers available.

    Locate our plant, and call the dispatcher to place your order. To secure a time slot, place the order two to three days ahead of time if possible. We can deliver as quickly as within _ hour notice if our schedule allows. We will need the following information:

    • Your Name

    • Address including directions

    • Telephone number (optional)

    • Description of the project to determine mix design (ex: exterior)

    • Number of cubic yards you need (use our concrete calculator)

    • Will you want any product upgrades or enhancers

    • Date and time of desired delivery

    • Method of Payment (Cash, Check or Credit Card) Please note that payment by credit card must be done before delivery. Our trucks are not equipped with credit card terminals.

  • Placing and Finishing the Concrete

    Before the truck arrives you should:

    • Arrange a passageway for the truck. Remember, if the ground is soft, the wheels can make deep ruts. The heavy trucks can also damage existing walkways and driveways. Don’t forget to look for overhead wires, underground sprinklers, septic systems, etc. that would be in the path. Once the truck leaves the road, any damages arising from the delivery will be your responsibility. If there is any doubt that the truck cannot access the job without damaging your property, you should hire a pump or conveying company; or plan on using wheelbarrows to transport the wet concrete. (This will require a minimum of two commercial grade wheelbarrows.)

    • Find a place for the truck to wash out after the pour is complete.

    • Put on protective clothing, boots and gloves. Avoid working in concrete soaked clothes, concrete filled boots or concrete soaked gloves. Wear eye protection to prevent splashes from getting in your eyes. If you find your skin in contact with wet concrete, rinse off thoroughly with soap and water. Flush eyes with water. Do not continue working in saturated clothing. Wet concrete is a caustic material. It can cause alkali burns of your skin and eyes.

  • As the concrete is unloaded, start with the concrete that was placed first and finish with the concrete that was placed last. (When working on a slope, work upwards on the slope.) Spread the concrete with a square ended shovel, a concrete rake or a come-along. Avoid using a garden rake or other tools that will segregate the concrete. Lightly tap the edges of the forms with a shovel or 2×4 to release air bubbles and consolidate the concrete.

1.

As the concrete is unloaded, start with the concrete that was placed first and finish with the concrete that was placed last. (When working on a slope, work upwards on the slope.) Spread the concrete with a square ended shovel, a concrete rake or a come-along. Avoid using a garden rake or other tools that will segregate the concrete. Lightly tap the edges of the forms with a shovel or 2×4 to release air bubbles and consolidate the concrete.

2.

Use the screed (ex: a straight 2×4) to level the concrete by resting it on the top edge of the forms, tilting it forward and drawing it across the concrete with a sawing motion—always keeping a little concrete in front to fill in low spots. Screed (or strike off) the concrete twice – while leveling and grading it also consolidates the fresh concrete.

3.

Begin using the bull float as an area is screeded. Do this before the bleed water comes to the surface in order to ensure the durability of the slab. Draw the bull float over the concrete in the opposite direction of the screeding if possible. Push first then pull back to level the surface. One or two passes with the bull float will smooth the concrete without sealing the surface. [Warning: Over use of the bull float will seal the surface preventing the bleed water from migrating to the surface. It may form blisters underneath the surface which will delaminate and scale as the concrete ages.]

4.

Bleed water will migrate to the surface from the fresh concrete in small pools. It will be reabsorbed or will evaporate. You must wait until the bleed water disappears and the surface becomes dull to begin the finishing process. Finishing while bleed water is present can cause blisters, crazing, dusting and scaling later on.

5.

Use the edger and groover for the first pass when the concrete begins to firm up to form the rough shape. Round out the outside edges with the edger. Cut in joints with the groover (if you haven’t put in control joints) Guide the groover with a board on the first pass to achieve a straight line. (See Construct Joints in Concrete Slabs). Use the tools to push the gravel in the concrete mix away from the rounded edges. Repeat this process as the concrete hardens. The last pass polishes the final shape and smooths out inconsistencies. Avoid overworking the concrete—doing so will weaken the concrete.

6.

If texture and a non slip surface is desired, use a concrete broom. Broom the surface by placing a dampened broom on the other side and gently and slowly pulling it toward you. Overlap strokes by six inches. If the texture is too rough or if clumps of concrete start gathering, the concrete is not ready. Smooth with a mag float and try it again in 15 minutes.

7.

Curing should begin when it is possible to walk on it without marring it and consists of keeping the concrete moist by sprinkling or misting with water and covering with burlap or plastic. The concrete must be kept consistently wet. This should be done for 5—7 days depending on the temperature. This allows the concrete to gain strength by a chemical reaction called hydration. Or liquid curing compounds can be applied to seal in the moisture but are not recommended for concrete poured late in the fall.

8.

Sealing compounds can be applied to provide protection from salts and water penetrating the concrete surface. It is recommended to seal exterior concrete such as sidewalks, patios and driveways. Again they are not recommended for concrete poured late in the fall.

The above instructions are only basic instructions for what can be a difficult job. Many variables can impact the success of your job. We strongly recommend that you read our Quality Control Section and visit the NRMCA website for further information and guidance in placing and finishing concrete.